Man i just love your blog, keep the cool posts comin…..

“Rumbold – good for you not going 5 star – the Oberois and Tatas don’t need your money – although their hotels do have their uses ! – to go to to flinch their soap and toilet paper! We all falter and fall in the end.”

Cheapness, not ideology, occasioned my stance.

Once on a Delhi- Bombay train, over 30 years ago as a child, it broke down somewhere in MP – south of Bhopal or Indore – can’t really remember – but it was in the middle of nowhere and it was all very exciting. However within 30 minutes there was a throng from a local village selling drinks and food. So while the place looked empty for miles around, there was a village withing 15 – 30 minutes walk of the train all ready and waiting with hot chai !! Amazing – and that was when there were 600million not 1000million

However talking of lonely places, Chittor is the Rajput fort that still sticks in my memory – its sheer size, and while it may not be the best preserved , it has an unforgetable aura and state of melancholy. Its very atmospheric to stand on its vast battlements and consider it history. Its also pretty empty – and has few visitors. It even had gazelle and other animals still whithin the jungle that is in the interior, its so vast.

Rumbold – good for you not going 5 star – the Oberois and Tatas don’t need your money – although their hotels do have their uses ! – to go to to flinch their soap and toilet paper! We all falter and fall in the end.

Justforfun

as for nizammudins..interesting place..like stepping back in time…read william dalrymples city of djins for more..

“Regarding accomodation, if you want to treat yourself then the Oberoi Hotels group is truly world-class; they have luxurious hotels in Udaipur, Jaipur and Agra. The one in Udaipur (built in imitation Rajput/Mughal style) has actually been voted the best hotel in the world.”

Far too expensive for me Jai.

“You’re going to have an absolutely fantastic time ! I bet you’re really looking forward it it, eh.”

Definately.

“Apologies if I’m accidentally sounding like I’m trying to talk you out of (or into) anything ! You have your own personal reasons for wanting to visit Jaipur etc, so of course it’s all entirely up to you.”

Please, feel free to offer your opinion on things. I am still going to Jaipur, but if/when I go back to India I will try and see other parts of Rajastan as well.

“Dude, there are still dargahs (Sufi shrines) around various parts of northern India where they all get together and sing qawwalis.”

I was talking about getting pregnant (As Akbar’s wife did thanks in part perhaps to Akbar’s visits to Shaikh Chisti).

And thanks for all the links.

Ha ha ha. Though that only happened when Chisti was alive.

Dude, there are still dargahs (Sufi shrines) around various parts of northern India where they all get together and sing qawwalis.

Which reminds me, when you’re in Delhi try to check out the shrine of Nizamuddin Auliya. The dargah complex also contains the tomb of Shahjahan’s daughter Jahanara, along with the famous poet Amir Khusro. Wikipedia has more details.

Oh yes, I nearly forgot — there’s an extremely famous restaurant called “Karim’s” very close to the main mosque in Old Delhi (“Jamma Masjid”); apparently it has the best Mughlai-style food you’ll ever eat. The link I’ve supplied includes press reviews along with details of the menus available, the history of the restaurant and the family who are its hereditary chefs (apparently they’re descended from cooks employed by the Mughal emperors), etc.

No it’s not. Have you ever taken a train through the countrysides? You ask yourself where the hell are the 1 billion plus people. The cities are suffocatingly crowded, but not every single nook and cranny in India is stuffed with people

BTW, Ajmer is really, really pretty.

at your discretion it may be worthwhile considering cancelling Jaipur this time

Apologies if I’m accidentally sounding like I’m trying to talk you out of (or into) anything ! You have your own personal reasons for wanting to visit Jaipur etc, so of course it’s all entirely up to you

(Chittorgarh, near Udaipur, is famous in India for its dramatic and quite tragic history, especially in relation to the events surrounding the “jauhar” ritual which occurred there several times during the Delhi Sultanate and Mughal period).

Just to expand on the above, check out the following explanation of “Jauhar” when you have some spare time, as Chittorgarh is particularly well-known for it. It should give you a little more insight into some Rajput customs during times of war and the associated historical events, as this was integral to their culture.

Thanks in part to your persuading, I have added Ajmer and Jaipur to my list. The problem is that there are so many different places to see, that I do have to be selective.

I know what you mean. Actually, seconding JFF’s comment above, at your discretion it may be worthwhile considering cancelling Jaipur this time (but definitely keeping Amber — it’s pretty much the full-scale “high-altitude medieval Rajput fortress”) and visiting one of the other cities I mentioned instead. I understand this may be complicated somewhat as you want to check out the pink architecture due to the associated historical reasons.

Actually Wikipedia gives thorough historical overviews of those other royal cities but the photographs aren’t particularly good, with the exception of the page for Udaipur — check it out and you’ll see what I mean. The state and its Rajput rulers were also very famous for their stubborn defiance of attempts to impose imperial rule over them (both Mughal and British), which was actually acknowledged by the Brits and respected accordingly.

The main palace at Udaipur (no, not the one on the lake) is also pretty amazing; it’s quite large, still in good condition, very atmospheric, with lots of courtyards, beautiful stained glass windows etc. It even has rooftop gardens !

Gwailor fort will have to provide an acceptable substitute (I know that it is not in Rajastan, but it is supposed to be amazing).

Yes definitely, it’s fantastic and extremely impressive.

*******************

Regarding accomodation, if you want to treat yourself then the Oberoi Hotels group is truly world-class; they have luxurious hotels in Udaipur, Jaipur and Agra. The one in Udaipur (built in imitation Rajput/Mughal style) has actually been voted the best hotel in the world.

Their website has more details and of course plenty of high-quality photographs: http://www.oberoihotels.com/

You’re going to have an absolutely fantastic time ! I bet you’re really looking forward it it, eh.

“Rumbold – this may come as news but India IS crowded – everywhere! Even out in the jungle when you think its all quite, and you go around a tree to relieve yourself, you will find someone is there ahead of you – (Ps the tree bit, it’s optional ).”

Heh. I hope that I do not have to retreat to my hotel room too much for peace and quiet.

“As you are on a quasi religious quest – Chisti’s tomb at Fatehpur Sikri is worth a visit as its a living breathing pilgrimage site. Don’t get too close though – you may get pregnant.”

Ha ha ha. Though that only happened when Chisti was alive.

Sid:

Thanks for the link. I have already booked by Delhi hotels, so I will just have to pray and hope.

Rumbold – this may come as news but India IS crowded – everywhere! Even out in the jungle when you think its all quite, and you go around a tree to relieve yourself, you will find someone is there ahead of you – (Ps the tree bit, it’s optional ).

Bits of New Delhi around the RajPath are quite and I recollect that Chandigarth had it wide spaces , thanks to Le Corbusier, but that memory was 20 years ago.

Jaipur – overrated, but Amber on the outskirts is something else.

Itmad-ud-Daulah’s tomb is nice and worth a vist because it has not been buggered around with too much. Just sits in its own garden and few visitors.

As you are on a quasi religious quest – Chisti’s tomb at Fatehpur Sikri is worth a visit as its a living breathing pilgrimage site. Don’t get too close though – you may get pregnant.

Justforfun

“Rumbold..i’m truly jealous..(and i’m not even the jealous type), but i would love to spend 2 months travelling India and Pakistan..although even this would not be enough…”

Yes, I am pretty lucky.

“Regarding the situation in Lahore, not too bad, apart from food/petrol prices going up..you would still be ok if you went…avoid karachi though..”

I know that Pakistan is not as bad as the news reports make out, but I suspect that as a white man, it would not be the most intelligent thing to go there now. One day I will though.

” love Delhi, especially the old part…chandni chowk is worth spending some time in..even if it is a “hell hole” (quote courtesy of my mother)…”

I have heard that it is very crowded, so I will only devote a bit of time to it.

“(Belated response) Well there are other classical instruments, such as the sarangi, tabla and santoor (you’ll definitely hear variations of the first one during your visit to Rajasthan). Going to a ghazal “mehfil” would also be a great idea, especially if the great Jagjit Singh happens to be holding one of his periodic concerts over there.”

I must confess that I have never been too big a fan of classical Indian music (I prefer the newer, Bollywood ‘sound’).

“Seeing Rajasthan would give you a much more extensive insight into the legacy of those times. “Rajputana” and its rulers played such a huge role in North Indian history, it would be great for you to explore as much of it as possible, otherwise you’re missing out a really big chunk of North Indian culture and society, especially as someone who has such a keen interest in the Mughal era.”

Thanks in part to your persuading, I have added Ajmer and Jaipur to my list. The problem is that there are so many different places to see, that I do have to be selective.

“Fair enough, perhaps a future return visit is in order?”

I hope so, providing I do not absolutely loathe it.

“However, the main palace — with the famous, recognisable front façade — is right in the middle of the crowded city centre. To get the “real” feel for the Rajput/Mughal era, nothing beats being confronted with the massive fortress on top of the plateau in Jodhpur (Mehrangarh Fort); apparently it dwarfs anything comparable in Europe.”

Gwailor fort will have to provide an acceptable substitute (I know that it is not in Rajastan, but it is supposed to be amazing).

“Anyway, I think you’ll get a similar jaw-dropping “hit” when you see the Taj Mahal close up in all its imperial glory too. Nothing you have seen of it before, either in photographs or on television, will prepare you for what it’s like in real life.”

I’m also looking forward to seeing Itmad-ud-Daulah’s tomb.

I am not sure of the merits of the sitar, but I shall give it a go.

(Belated response) Well there are other classical instruments, such as the sarangi, tabla and santoor (you’ll definitely hear variations of the first one during your visit to Rajasthan). Going to a ghazal “mehfil” would also be a great idea, especially if the great Jagjit Singh happens to be holding one of his periodic concerts over there.

Yes, describing Gujarat as a Mughal heartland was a bit ambitous.

The region definitely came within Mughal political and cultural influence (some parts of the area obviously more than others), but yes seeing Rajasthan would give you a much more extensive insight into the legacy of those times. “Rajputana” and its rulers played such a huge role in North Indian history, it would be great for you to explore as much of it as possible, otherwise you’re missing out a really big chunk of North Indian culture and society, especially as someone who has such a keen interest in the Mughal era.

Hell, while you’re at it you may as well check out the soundtrack to a 90s Hindi film called “Lekin” too — the whole movie was set in Rajasthan, and the songs are very famous and of very high quality; not even remotely like the usual “Bollywood” stereotype, they’re mostly semi-classical songs reflecting Rajasthani music during the pre-colonial Rajput/Mughal era, although most of the film is actually set in pre-independence India during the “princely states” age. It’ll give you a bit more of a feel for the region’s traditional culture.

Actually, during the late 90s there was a brilliant travel series on Zee TV called “Namaste India”; if you know anyone who recorded any of it, it would definitely be worthwhile for you to check out the episodes on the major Rajasthani royal cities, along with the episodes on Amritsar and of course on Agra & Fatehpur Sikri (which obviously included the Taj Mahal). All were in impeccable English, with a thorough overview of the history of the various locations depicted, and all accompanied with wonderfully atmospheric, evocative music. I think the series even won some awards back in India; it was very professionally done.

I’ve re-jigged my iternary and will spend a week and a half in Jaipur and Ajmer, by cutting down time in Gujarat.

Fair enough, perhaps a future return visit is in order ? It would be a good idea to pencil in Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Udaipur if/when you go back (Chittorgarh, near Udaipur, is famous in India for its dramatic and quite tragic history, especially in relation to the events surrounding the “jauhar” ritual which occurred there several times during the Delhi Sultanate and Mughal period). Of course, Jaipur definitely has plenty to see in terms of still-visible Rajput-era city walls (with the occasional “chattri”/cupola on top), the main palace complex (with a superb armoury/museum, packed with historical weaponry and armour in excellent condition), plus the residence belonging to one of the historical “Sisodia queens” outside the main city. There are other associated hilltop forts nearby too, and don’t miss the “Jantar Mantar” complex either.

However, the main palace — with the famous, recognisable front façade — is right in the middle of the crowded city centre. To get the “real” feel for the Rajput/Mughal era, nothing beats being confronted with the massive fortress on top of the plateau in Jodhpur (Mehrangarh Fort); apparently it dwarfs anything comparable in Europe. It’s pretty awe-inspiring to enter it through the huge front gates and walk uphill into the main fortress, past all the old horse stables; not to mention the amazing experience of standing at the ramparts right at the top and looking out over the rest of the city. It definitely makes you wonder what it would have been like to have lived in those times, particularly if you were part of the Rathore clan or a member of their armies. Jaisalmer, much further out in the desert, is also similarly memorable, although the outward appearance of the main fortress-citadel is very different to its counterpart in Jodhpur.

Incidentally, you may also get a feeling of déjà vu if you visit these two places and happen to be a fan of the movie version of Lord of The Rings

Anyway, I think you’ll get a similar jaw-dropping “hit” when you see the Taj Mahal close up in all its imperial glory too. Nothing you have seen of it before, either in photographs or on television, will prepare you for what it’s like in real life.